What is a Yurt and How Can I Stay in One?

Home » Featured, Headline, Life, Travel March 20, 2012 10 Comments

What is a yurt? If you’re traveling to Xinjiang (China), Mongolia, Kazakhstan or any other Central Asian country, it’s more than likely that you’re going to run into one of them.

Technically, a yurt is a portable housing structure constructed with a wooden frame and wool covering. They are traditionally used by Turkic nomads who make their living herding sheep in the rich grasslands.

For the majority of us, however, a yurt is something completely different. A yurt is an experience. It is a replacement for a hotel and a glimpse into another culture.

Simply put, a yurt is an adventure.

 A Xinjiang yurt near Karakul Lake in China

My wife and I stayed in the yurt you see above along the Karakul Lake in Xinjiang, China. We could have opted for a small building that barely passed as a “hotel” or perhaps brought our tent, but we decided to experience a yurt.

I’m so glad we did.

The Making of a Yurt

From the outside, the outer wool skin hides the inner workings of a yurt. When I first stepped inside I thought it all looked quite complicated, but I was told by the owner that it only takes about 2-3 hours to set up and tear down.

It all begins with a circular, wooden frame that is usually constructed as a lattice wall and meets at the frame of a door. The roof runs from the tops of this lattice to the center where they support the crown of the structure.

To complete the process, several layers of wool are laid across the entire frame and tied down with rope. The end result, as I found out one cold October night, is surprisingly warm!

Inside a Yurt

The floor of our yurt was covered with carpets with only a few bare patches of dirt. Large blankets were stacked on one side of the yurt while a makeshift “kitchen” occupied the opposite wall.

“Where are the beds?” was the first naive question that I asked our host. It wasn’t till later that evening that I realized that all those large blankets would be laid out into what would become an incredibly comfortable bed.

A view inside a yurt in Xinjiang, China

“Inside a Yurt” by FWC Facebook fan Candy Leow

As I slept through the night snug next to my wife, it was interesting to imagine that explorers like Sven Hedin had slept in similar accommodations when he was making his historic journey along the Silk Road.

Sven Hedin sits with his camel outside a Xinjiang yurt

How to Stay in a Yurt

The best part about staying in a yurt is that it’s more than just a place to sleep. Our host was a husband and wife who spent time talking with us and hanging out. The wife cooked us great Kirghiz meals while the husband – ever the businessman – attempted to sell us carpets and camel rides.

The whole trip began with a local travel guide who connected us with his friends who rented out their yurt. We came to an agreement of 50 RMB per person (we had 4) which included one of the meals.

On other trips, such as one to Salimu Lake, “tourist yurts” were lined up along the shore and rented out hostel-style.

In Xinjiang, there are three primary places to experience a yurt:

Be warned: the yurts that you find at Urumqi’s Heavenly Lake are mostly tourist traps. Perhaps you might consider all of them tourist traps, but the closer you get to the western border of Xinjiang, the more authentic they are.

Xinjiang yurts near the Tekes

Photo courtesy of Scott at Abdul Wahab Tours
A line of yurts at Salimu Lake in Xinjiang, China
Yurts at Salimu Lake by FWC Facebook Fan Madelein Ghozzi

More Resources

Have you stayed in a yurt? What advice would you give?

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10 Comments

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  • Wandering Educators said:
    March 21st, 2012 at 7:11 am

    I love this – such efficient structures, and what an experience!

    [Reply]

    Josh says: March 22nd, 2012 at 8:54 am

    Thanks, Jessie! It really is an adventure you’ll never forget.

    [Reply]

  • Chris Devonshire-Ellis said:
    March 24th, 2012 at 9:51 pm

    Nice article, but parts of it are wrong. The “Yurt” is the Kazak version of the round felt nomadic tent and is also referred to as such in Xinjiang. In Mongolia these are called a “Ger” and they have a slightly different structure in terms of the opening at the top. You NEVER call a Mongolian Ger a Yurt – it is considered highly insulting.
    Yurt – Kazak, Xinjiang.
    Ger – Mongolia.
    For your info.
    CDE

    [Reply]

    Toshkan says: March 31st, 2012 at 1:36 pm

    Actually Kazakhs call them “Kiygiz Uy” and Kyrgyz call them “Boz Uy”. “Yurt” has more the meaning of ‘homeland’. (see: here. If you said ‘Ger’ to a Turkic speaker, they’d probbably think you’re making tiger noises… :)

    [Reply]

  • Chris said:
    April 25th, 2012 at 3:02 am

    Staying in a yurt might just be my #1 priority for my visit to Xinjiang. I just hope my poor travel buddy is okay with being little spoon :-p

    [Reply]

  • Daniel McBane said:
    June 26th, 2012 at 4:28 am

    I stayed in a yurt at Karakul Lake a few years ago and one thing I would add is: bring warm clothes. I was there in August and despite daytime temperatures of over 40 C, it got so cold at night that I didn’t get a minute of sleep. Your hosts will give you as many blankets as you want, but that didn’t help much. I spent all night shivering underneath a mountain of blankets.

    [Reply]

    Josh says: June 26th, 2012 at 12:13 pm

    Great point! I actually brought a pair of long underwear – it saves space and keeps you warm at the same time.

    Thanks for your comments, Daniel!

    [Reply]

  • Charlotte said:
    July 19th, 2012 at 9:43 am

    I loved reading this piece about yurts. It brought back wonderful memories of my trips in Xinjiang and other parts of Central Asia in the early 1980s. I saw heavenly Lake before it became a tourist trap and so glad for this! Great place!

    [Reply]

    Josh says: July 19th, 2012 at 10:58 am

    That’s awesome! Do you have any photos of Heavenly Lake back in the 1980′s? If so, please email me at josh[at]farwestchina[dot]com.

    [Reply]

  • Jeff said:
    March 16th, 2013 at 9:03 am

    There is a lot more info about yurts at the yurt forum:

    http://www.yurtforum.com/forums/yurt-facts/what%20is%20a%20yurt.html

    They are becoming mainstream these days. :)

    [Reply]

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