A Hiker's Guide to Xinjiang, China

A Hiker’s Guide to Xinjiang, China

April 25 | 21 Comments

Hiking in Xinjiang, ChinaIn September 2011, my parents and I arrived in Xinjiang for a two-week stay. We had been discussing the trip for nearly four years and our primary goal was to spend time in the Tian Shan.

We accomplished this goal, but not in the way or to the extent we had hoped for. I am writing this article to explain our experiences to other would-be trekkers, and reflect on what we could have done differently, or what other people in different circumstances could do, to better experience the Tian Shan.

A Brief Introduction

My family is fond of hiking. Although we are not fiercely avid trekkers, my parents, who are in their 60s, take multi-day backpacking trips in Montana’s Glacier National Park every year, in addition to many other day and overnight hikes each summer.

I have done a good amount of hiking in the Rocky Mountains and other parts of the world, with my most exotic experience being a five-day trek in the foothills of the Himalayas in Nepal. On that trek, my friends and I walked up a river valley, buying meals and lodging at tiny settlements along the way. We carried clothing and some supplies, but no food or bedding.

What we were looking for in the Tian Shan was something of a mix between what my parents do every year in Glacier Park and my experience in Nepal: a multi-day trek with plenty of stunning views of snow-capped mountains but without having to carry and prepare all of our own provisions.

However, despite our clear goal, we landed in Urumqi with almost zero plans in place. This was not for lack of trying, we had all spent many hours on the Internet looking for information about trekking in the Tian Shan. We had sent inquiries to several companies, organizations and websites but had gathered very little that was useful in a concrete way.

This lack of a plan was partially by choice. We did find companies who offered exactly the kind of multi-day trips we wanted. The kicker: enormous price tags. So, if you are willing to pay several hundred dollars per day per person for a trek in the Tian Shan, stop reading and start searching for tour companies.

China guidebooks said almost nothing about hiking in the Tian Shan, and there were no useful resources or maps online. But armed with a flexible attitude, we began our trip knowing there were big mountains out there and somehow were were going to find a way to see them.

Hiking the Nan Shan

Two travelers hiking the NanShan in Xinjiang, ChinaThe only concrete piece of advice we had was that the Nan Shan areas near Urumqi should provide some good hiking opportunities. We spent a day organizing in Urumqi and the next morning boarded a bus for Nan Shan. We arrived, found a place to stay in a yurt and took a pleasant walk up the canyon to a waterfall.

The next day, we hiked around the surrounding hills. The grasslands spotted with sheep and herders’ huts were lovely and there were some pretty mountains, but no snow-covered giants. There were no other obvious recreational options, so we decided not to spend another night. We poured over our maps and decided on a plan that would take us on a big loop out West and back to Urumqi, probably lasting about a week.

I should note that I speak basic-intermediate Chinese due to a year living in Beijing, and my Japanese abilities make it easy for me to recognize and learn new characters. Making the trip we did with zero Chinese skills would be significantly more difficult. We met few people on our travels who spoke English, and once we left Urumqi, saw almost zero other foreign friends.

Nalati Grasslands (Narat)

We returned to Urumqi and with great difficulty and some tweaks in the plan we had made, got on an overnight train to Yining. We spent the night in town and left on a bus the next day to Nalati, a small town that serves as a launching point for the Nalati Grasslands Natural Park.

The next morning, after paying the surprisingly pricey entrance/bus fee (something we encountered in all nature parks in Xinjiang), we headed into the grasslands. They were, as advertised, impressive—a vast verdant expanse edged by those big white mountains we had been searching for. We took a long walk up into the foothills that afforded even better views of the snow-capped giants.

From the Nalati (Narat) Grasslands, the TianShan in Xinjiang, China

While there was plenty of amazing country, the park lacked the infrastructure to support the kind of multi-day treks we wanted to do. This represents the biggest obstacle we encountered on our trip: a lack of support for people wanting to get even slightly off the beaten path.

In every place we visited, we encountered good facilities for the sizable crowds wanting to see the main sights. Some of these facilities were impressive in the way only China can be—like one hike of several miles where the trail was completely made of giant hand-laid stone blocks.

But walk just ten minutes away from these headliner attractions and there was nothing.

If we had been fully supported with food and gear, we could have just walked toward the horizon, but we could find nothing in terms of trails, maps or guides. If we had been more adventurous, we might have had success with just setting out with our day packs and offering to pay for bread and board at the yurts we passed in the hills.

Bayanbulak Grasslands

The next morning, we boarded a mini-bus for the trip of several hours up into the highlands to the town of Bayanbulak. A true frontier town and the most remote settlement we were to visit on our trip, Bayanbulak sits on a high plain surrounded by higher mountains.

I am not sure of the elevation, but the area is above tree-line, so there were only endless hills of brown grass. Nearby is the Bayanbulak Swan Nature Reserve, which is the main, and only, attraction.

The Bayanbulak Grasslands in Xinjiang, China

We spent a day touring the reserve, which is mostly known for a view of a zig-zagging river that shines like a jewel when the sun sets over it. Again, the place was beautiful, but options were limited to the stops on the tour bus.

We had planned to complete the route by taking a bus south to Kuche and then an overnight train back to Urumqi. However, we learned in Bayanbulak that there was no bus to Kuche. We could have hired a car, but locals urged us that the roads were bad and the only willing driver would not budge on the steep price he was asking. If someone will not bargain even a little in China, it probably means they are not very interested in selling. So, we boarded a bus that backtracked a little and then turned east to Korla, where we boarded a night bus that had us in Urumqi in the morning.

Hiking Heavenly Lake

Hiking the Heavenly Lake in Xinjiang, ChinaSurprisingly, our best hiking of the trip was in the Heavenly Lake (Tian Chi) area just outside of Urumqi. One of the biggest tourist spots in Xinjiang, we had been avoiding it, as we had heard how large and unpleasant the crowds were.

The hordes were indeed big, even at the end of the tourist season we were traveling in, but like the other places we visited, a few steps off the paved paths was all it took to find peace and quiet.

Heavenly Lake was nice because of the great views of the nearly 18,000-foot Bogda Peak. We took several nice hikes that gave different vistas of snowy peaks and the sky-blue lake.

After two nights at Heavenly Lake, we found a ride back to Urumqi and the next day boarded a plane to Nanjing, to start the vastly different second half of our trip in eastern China.

Final Thoughts on Hiking in Xinjiang

All in all, our experience in Xinjiang was very enjoyable. We were able to visit several beautiful places, each of which showed a slightly different side of the Tian Shan range. Considering the time we had available, our Chinese skills, and the tourism environment and infrastructure, I think our trip was quite successful.

If I were to return to Xinjiang, and if my goal was to do more hiking in the Tian Shan, I would probably bring full backpacking gear, stock up on food, head to Heavenly Lake, and start hiking upstream.

From what I saw and heard, I think this would soon have me walking at the base of the white giants that were distantly visible from the lake. Doing the same in the Nalati Grasslands would also probably have been enjoyable.

Beautiful grasslands and mountains at Heavenly Lake in Xinjiang, China

As I have said repeatedly, I believe the main barriers to trekking in the Tian Shan are the difficulty of access and paucity of information. Currently, there seems to be little motivation for the locals to develop such infrastructure.

In every place we visited, there were plenty of tourists, nearly all of them Han Chinese from the eastern provinces. These are the customers whose desires determine what is for sale in terms of nature experiences in the Tian Shan. At present, they seem content to buy their brand-name (or knockoff) hiking outfits in Beijing or Shanghai, board crowded buses, and be shuttled around to predetermined spots, only alighting for brief photo opportunities. Eventually, some of this crowd will tire of the beaten path and start looking for ways to have a more intimate natural experience.

About the Author:

Author bio pictureJoAnn Hanson, Eric Stimson and Carl Stimson traveled to Xinjiang in September 2011. Carl lived and worked in Beijing for a year in 2007-2008 and traveled for several months around China in 2002. Carl currently lives in Japan. Eric and JoAnn had never been to China before. They live in Montana, USA, and are retired from careers in geology and computer programming, respectively.

About Josh Summers

Josh is a writer, musician and entrepreneur who currently resides in Urumqi, capital of China's western province of Xinjiang. He has been traveling and writing about this region since 2006 and has no plans to stop in the near future.

Continue Reading:

Leave a Comment

  1. If you’re wanting to do some serious backpacking in Xinjiang, my friend Chris has been running some pretty great trips. I think they are 10 days in the Nan Shan Mts. His website it http://www.jwatrips.com for more info.

    [Reply]

    Josh on April 25th, 2012 at 3:42 pm

    Wow…I’m amazed that I’ve never heard of them before. Thanks for passing the link along!

    [Reply]

    Patty on April 27th, 2012 at 5:28 pm

    Our teenage son went with Chris on one of his Journey Wilderness backpacking trips. He had an amazing experience and we have complete confidence in Chris’ ability to lead a safe, memorable adventure trip. Highly recommended!

    [Reply]

  2. Highly recommend! In fact, I think a backpacking trip in Xinjiang is in progress this May holiday week in China. I had wanted to partake, but forgot about it until too late. Another time… Thanks for the info in your article!

    [Reply]

  3. I am from Xinjiang and knowing that locals are fascinated about hiking in recent years. They have organized ‘Lv You’ groups and went hiking almost all weekends. I have a cousin brother who is leading one of the group. Most of their trips are one day, and a few of them in summer might involve overnight in the mountains. They usually rent a bus bring the group to foothills and came back with the same bus. For Chinese, hiking has a little different connotation. it seems exercising for health, and group interaction are two more major goals.

    [Reply]

  4. Interesting that there is so little interest from Chinese in hiking…I wonder why?

    [Reply]

    Josh on May 9th, 2012 at 8:26 am

    There’s interest, I believe, it’s just not strong yet. If you walk around Urumqi you’ll find some great outdoor stores that sell high-quality gear.

    I think the majority of Chinese just want to check each place off their list, so obviously all of these places cater to them. Most Chinese know that if they want to do a serious hiking or camping expedition, they can get in touch with a tour group that does that (there are a few).

    [Reply]

  5. Thanks for sharing your wonderful hiking experience. Sounds really interesting! But is it necessary to have a local guide escorted? We can not speak any Chinese.

    [Reply]

    Josh on June 7th, 2012 at 4:42 pm

    I wouldn’t say “necessary”, but a guide definitely helps unless you know the area. I’ve recently been turned on to the Journey Wilderness Adventure that is based in Xinjiang. Looks like they provide guides in English, albeit at a somewhat expensive price. Worth checking out, though! http://jwatrips.com/

    [Reply]

  6. I was really interested in doing some trekking around Autumn this year. I checked out Journey Wilderness Adventure, but their prices are very expensive. I’ve been doing some research and I came across this website http://www.chinatrekking.com/destinations/xinjiang

    …that outlines itineries for travellers to do it themselves. I was particularly interested in the one in Kanas lake.

    Do you know of anyone who has done any of these trips? the maps leave a little to be desired but everything else looks pretty comprehensive.

    [Reply]

    Josh on June 14th, 2012 at 8:47 am

    Cameron, I’m with you…they are expensive! Unfortunately there are not many other options for hiking in Xinjiang unless you want to do it yourself (dangerous) or go with a Chinese guide (very difficult).

    Glad you were able to find that other website, even though I don’t know of anybody who calls the region “Xin”. More often it is refered to as “Jiang” (“Bei jiang” for north Xinjiang or “nan jiang” for south Xinjiang).

    There are plenty of Chinese-run organized trips to Kanas if you’re interested. You won’t get to do any hiking or camping, though. To do that you’ll just have to go out there yourself, which really isn’t that bad. Just pay the entrance fee and roam around!

    [Reply]

  7. This place is amazing! I really enjoyed Xinjiang. Probably the most life changing experience. I just got a website to record my travels. I went to Xinjiang, Yunnan, Henan, and many other parts of China. Check out asoj09812.net76.net/

    [Reply]

  8. Really enjoyed reading this! My husband and I are hoping to do something similar in the near future and this was definitely helpful. We’re also intrigued by the 5 day trek you did in Nepal. Any details or recs you can share would be appreciated! Thanks again.

    [Reply]




The 2015 Xinjiang travel guide is here!