When it comes to traveling the Silk Road in China, there are usually three “must-see” cities: Kashgar, Dunhuang and Turpan. Each city offers a unique insight into the history of the Silk Road along with proper tourist amenities to make the trip fun.

So why visit Turpan?

I mean, let’s be honest: Turpan (also known as Tulufan in Chinese) is one of the lowest points in the world, so it’s insanely hot during the summer! Who in their right mind would brave extreme heat just to see a few old cities?

Well, I did. And many others have done the same and been glad they went. Here are a few good reasons why.

Fascinating Historical Significance

Nowhere else along the Silk Road is there such a concentration of historically significant sites! In fact, people have been inhabiting the Turpan Basin for more than 2 millenium according to archaeological and written record.

The best places to see this history in person are at the ancient Gaochang Ruins and the spectacular Jiaohe Ruins. Both cities were once grand capitals of a forgotten kingdom that collapsed many centuries ago.

Best of all, both of these ruins along with many other historical sites, are within only a 20-30 minute drive!

A Dive into Uyghur Culture

If you stay in the south part of town, there’s no escaping the Uyghur culture that you’ll be immersed in. Ever since the 14th century this area has been predominantly populated by the Uyghur ethnic group.

One of my favorite places to hang out in the cool evenings was the night market, an area where vendors cook lamb kebabs over a grill and noodles are prepared in abundance. People come out for a good time and stay late into the evening drinking beer and laughing.

It’s also a ton of fun to take a walk west of town into the Uyghur neighborhoods. It’s a blast to check out the beautiful Turpan Mosque and take pictures of the well-decorated doors. People are often sitting outside and more than willing to engage with you.

The Night Market

So I mentioned the famous Night Market above, but it bears repeating. You have to visit!

Xinjiang offers such an excellent variety of food that are all on display at the night market. Some of it may not look so appetizing (like the sheep entrails…uggh!) but the majority will have your mouth watering like crazy.

If you don’t believe me, check out a few of these examples of food that you’ll find well-cooked and well-priced at the Turpan Night Market:

• DaPanJi: A huge plate of chicken, potatoes and peppers swimming in a delightfully spicy red sauce.
• Pollo (or “Pilaf”): A traditional Central Asian cuisine with a Uyghur flair. Savory lamb over tasty rice.
• Uyghur Flat Bread: Offered in a variety of styles, it’s a perfect compliment to kebabs or Dapanji.
• Laghman Noodles: A Uyghur noodle dish topped with vegetables and optional meat.

Amazing Architectural Feats

Turpan is well-known for their irrigation system, known as karez. These underground water channels meant to transfer snow melt to the dry desert farms were built hundreds of years ago before major digging equipment was available to help.

It was explained to me this way: if all of the karez in Turpan were put end to end, it would run all the way to Beijing! That’s simply incredible!

The karez are not the only beautiful example of architecture. I also loved checking out the Emin Minaret, one of Turpan’s most famous tourist sites.

Take a close look at the brickwork on the minaret that stands majestically pointing toward the sky. These are not accidental patterns and somehow they have stood the test of centuries to remain a beautiful piece of Uyghur artwork.

Top Notch Museum

It used to be that the Turpan Museum was housed in a run-down building probably built in the 60′s. Not so anymore.

The new Turpan Museum opened in 2009 and is the second-largest museum in all of Xinjiang (second to the Urumqi museum). Taking advantage of the many historical sites that surround Turpan, the museum is full of fascinating artifacts that cover pretty much every time period.

The highlight of the museum, however, are the mummies. Dug out of the Astana tombs of the ancient kings and queens, these mummies have been remarkably preserved by the dry heat of Turpan weather.

The museum is within walking distance of the most popular Turpan hotels and here’s the best news – it’s free!

Experience the Healing Powers of Sand

If you’re the type of person who enjoys trying the stuff that most people either avoid or just ignore, you’re going to love this.

One of Turpan’s biggest attractions is known as Sand Therapy. It is believed that sand offers certain healing powers due to the magnetic properties found in a particular sand dune near town.

People come here and bury themselves in the sand for hours on end, sitting under the shade of an umbrella or a towel. It may be over 100 degrees outside, but they’ll still be laying there drinking hot tea!

So if you have any ailments or diseases…go see a doctor! And then if that doesn’t work, go bury yourself in the Turpan Sand. :)

For most travelers, flying into Urumqi Diwopu International Airport (乌鲁木齐地窝铺国际机场) marks their first step into the Xinjiang province. The Urumqi airport is the primary transportation hub and one of only two airports in Xinjiang that offer international flights (Kashgar is the other).

In the hopes of making things as easy for you – the traveler – as possible, below I’ve tried to answer the top 4 question I receive about Urumqi flights in Xinjiang. If you have any additional questions, please put them in the comments section and I’ll keep this updated.

1. Which Urumqi Airport Terminal Do I Use?

The Urumqi International Airport is currently divided into three different terminals which are creatively named “T1″, “T2″ and “T3″. You can disregard Terminal 1 since it doesn’t accommodate any passenger flights, which leaves us only with Terminal 2 and Terminal 3.

TERMINAL 3

Urumqi’s Terminal 3 was opened back in 2010 and is the newest wing of the airport. Known for it’s “eagle’s wings” rooftop, it boasts a modern design and supposedly faster passenger check-in.

If you happen to be hungry, it also has the airport’s only overpriced KFC – which doesn’t sound great unless you compare it to T2′s “Best Food Burger” option. So I guess what I’m trying to say is…bring your own food.

There aren’t many duty free options if you’re flying international out of Urumqi. They have a perfume shop, a cigarette shop and a liquor shop, but they’re really not worth stopping by.

**You should use Terminal 3 if you are flying on China Southern. All other airlines fly out of Terminal 2.

TERMINAL 2

Urumqi’s Terminal 2 used to be the primary terminal prior to the T3 opening. It’s old, but it still functions well.

There aren’t that many food and drink options in Terminal 2, with the aforementioned Best Food Burger available before you enter the gate area. Past the security checkpoint there are a couple places to sit down and order tea or buy some last-minute, overpriced souvenirs, but that’s all.

**You should use Terminal 2 if you are flying any other airline besides China Southern.

2. Where can I fly to/from Urumqi?

Urumqi has become a major hub for travel not just within Xinjiang but also internationally. Considering it’s strategic location there’s no doubt that will continue to grow.

For simplicity sake, I’ll break out your flight options as either within Xinjiang, within China or internationally.

WITHIN XINJIANG

There are a total of 17 airports in Xinjiang, including the Urumqi International Airport (the Fuyun airport sometimes listed as Xinjiang’s 18th airport closed down in 1994). Although flights might not be available every day, Urumqi services all airports in the province.

*Shihezi airport is being moved and is expected to reopen in 2014.

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS

International flights to and from Urumqi have increased over the past few years, a reflection of the increased importance of Urumqi’s central location.

For those who are making Xinjiang a stop on their round-the-world adventures, here is a quick list of all the international destinations that Urumqi serves.

*Other smaller international are serviced on occasion, but these are the major ones.

DOMESTIC FLIGHTS

Instead of listing them all here, just know that Urumqi International Airport is serviced by every major airport in China and a few smaller ones as well.

3. Where do I Purchase Urumqi Flight Tickets?

There are three primary ways that you can purchase tickets for flights to Urumqi but I’ll go ahead and tell you now that the best way is from the comfort of your computer. Thankfully it’s easy!

Here are all three options:

• At the Airport: ticket counters at the airport will sell you tickets on the spot, although I highly discourage this since you will have to pay full price for these tickets. They’re never discounted.
  
• Local Travel Agent: from within Xinjiang you can easily buy tickets at the many local travel agencies. They can often get you discount that are equal to or greater than what you can find online. There’s only one catch: 95% of these agencies only accept cash! It’s a great option if you want to avoid bank fees, though.
• Purchase Tickets Online: By far the easiest and most accepted way to purchase flight tickets in Xinjiang is online. The two most popular sites are eLong.net and Ctrip.com. I recommend either since they both offer English versions of their sites and accept all major credit cards.

4. Is there transportation to/from the Airport?

The most nerve-wracking part of arriving in a new city is getting from the airport to your hotel. I don’t know about you, but I’m always on high alert for getting ripped off, especially when I arrive at night.

When you exit the baggage claim area in both Terminal 2 and Terminal 3, you’ll find a line of taxis that are a common way to get into the city. As long as you always take a certified taxi (it has a meter) and they drop the flag on the meter, you’ll be fine. Expect to pay between 30-50 RMB depending on where you’re going.

Another option is to take the shuttle. They have a couple, some of which go to the city center while others go to the train station, all with stops in between. There is a desk right before you exit the doors, so be prepared with the name of your hotel and show the clerk. They’ll let you know if they can take you there. By doing this, you’ll save yourself some money, as the average shuttle costs less than 20 RMB.

When your home is made of mud-brick, sometimes it’s hard to decorate.

At least, that’s my theory when it comes to Uyghur homes in Xinjiang, China. It’s for that reason (I believe) that the locals in almost every town along the ancient Silk Road put a lot of time and thought into their doors.

That’s right. Their doors.

Perhaps you’ve noticed it during your own travels to Xinjiang, but I’ll admit that their beauty completely escaped me for the first couple years I traveled the region. But once I noticed one, I couldn’t stop looking for cool doors.

Below is a mix of my favorite Xinjiang doors that I ran across in Turpan, Kashgar, Urumqi…and pretty much anywhere else in Xinjiang.

 A door in Turpan within the Emin Minaret complex

My favorite door of all time in Turpan’s Tuyoq Valley

A door in the Uyghur part of Turpan city proper

Another Turpan door. Can’t you tell from the painting?

An open door in Kashgar. Beautiful woodwork!

Nothing special, but this door in Kashgar’s Old City actually had nothing behind it. So why the padlock?

Not the greatest photo, but I love the doors to Kazakh yurts!

Go where no ocean has ever gone before.

Xinjiang is known for some crazy things, but only one odd fact has landed the Chinese province in the Guinness Book of World Records: Xinjiang is home to the geographic center of Asia. It’s the point furthest from the sea than anywhere else in the world.

Think about that for a moment. Xinjiang – a land that China is investing millions over the next decade to become an Asian trade hub – is further from a sea port than any other location in the world.

To commemorate this achievement, a monument park has been erected 25 kilometers southeast of the Xinjiang capital of Urumqi. Two questions come to mind:

 1. Is it really the center of Asia?
2. Is it worth a visit?

Photo credit: Confluence.org

Where EXACTLY is the Center of Asia?

The exact geographic center of Asia has been debated for quite some time, but somehow Chinese cartographers conveniently decided that it should be located not far from Urumqi where they quickly built a tourist attraction.

The official coordinates, as officially measured by the Chinese in 1992, is 43° 40′ 50″ North, 87° 19′ 52″ East.

Translated into English: about 30 minutes by car from Urumqi.

Of course, such a prestigious title like “Center of Asia” doesn’t come without contest. Kyzyl, in Russia, also claims to be the center of Asia.

Funny little fact: prior to the building of this monument park by the Chinese government in the late 1990′s, the geographic location was marked only by a 2 meter tall wooden stake.

In order to construct the monument park, the village that was originally situated on the land was actually relocated a kilometer away. Each house was torn down and a new one was constructed just for the sake of this geographic measurement!

Visiting the Centre of Asia

Have you taken a picture standing over an imaginary line between two countries? Are you a sucker for things like the Four Corners Monument in the United States?

If that’s you, you might enjoy visiting the Center of Asia monument park!

Most people stop here on their way down to NanShan, the beautiful grasslands south of Urumqi. It’s not far off the G216 highway and you won’t be able to miss the funky gate that welcomes you as you enter.

The wing-like entrance gate to the Center of Asia

Once you enter, though, don’t expect too much more than a simple monument pointing to a specific spot. That’s it.

Here you can take your picture next to (or under!) a 22-meter high fixture with a golden globe on top. The circle surrounding the tower boasts a relief of all Asian flags as well as a map of the Asian continent.

If you have the extra time, make the quick stop. At the very least it will be one of those things where you can say to your friends and family when you get home “I stood in the center of Asia!” Not many people can say that, you know.

Each country of Asia represented. Photo by Confluence.org

Travel Tips to the Center of Asia

The most simple way to get to the Center of Asia monument is by taxi car or with a tour group. Costs will vary based on the season, but most often this trip will be combined with a visit to NanShan or Urumqi’s Number 1 Glacier.

• Entrance Fee: 30 RMB
• Chinese Name: 亚洲大陆地理中心 (Yàzhōu dàlùdì lĭzhōngxīn)
• Best Time to Visit: If you happen to be in the area in August, check around to see if the annual parachuting event is happening (usually mid-August). It might be worth hanging around to soak in the festivities!

Last week a good friend and fellow Xinjiang-enthusiast loaned me a copy of LIFE magazine dated December 13, 1943. I get excited about these type of things (it’s weird, I know) and even after a quick glance I knew I wasn’t going to be disappointed.

On the cover, as you can see here, a Hui man labeled as a “Citizen of Sinkiang” stares at the reader with a youthful expression of confidence and curiosity. Forget World War II…what they heck does LIFE have to say about the far reaches of China?

Written by Theodore H. White and beautifully photographed by William Vandivert, LIFE claims this expedition in the 1940′s to be “The first accurate report on this mysterious land, since Owen Lattimore in 1927“.

Besides offering a visual history of the people and places of interest in Xinjiang (which is referred to in this magazine by its former English name ‘Sinkiang’), what struck me most were some of the ways in which the region was described.

Bathed in Blood

“Every now and then (1870, 1932) [the Chinese] have to contend with a rebellion of the Moslem masses, usually led by Chinese-speaking Moslem [now called the "Hui"]. These rebellions periodically bathe Sinkiang in blood. The massacres, though generally unreported, are spectacular.”

White actually spends little time dwelling on these massacres, but rather focuses on the “litter of races” that has been the cause. It’s interesting to see how he describes each ethnic group that he runs across, primarily because it is different from how many would describe them today:

• Kirghiz: “They are shepherds of upland pastures, are an attractive and civilized people”
• Tartars: “They have high social rating, many are rich”
• Kazaks: “They are nomads and bandits and consume huge quantities of kumiss liquor”
• Uzbeks: “…are as exclusive as the Tartars”
• White Russians: “They are mostly peasants and laborers but include some clerks”
• Chinese: ”Sinkiang’s merchant and ruling class…most Chinese are refugees from Manchuria”
• Uighur: “[They] are the chief landowners. They have been here since year 800″

The Chinese, White Russian and Uzbek women of Xinjiang

The Kirghiz, Tartar and Kazakh men of Xinjiang

During their visit in the 1940′s, the total population of Xinjiang was only 3,700,000. Of this number, 2,700,00 of them were Uyghur while only 182,000 were Chinese.

To compare, the latest census shows that Xinjiang is home to nearly 22 million people and is split almost 50/50 between the Uyghur and Han Chinese.

Chinese from Lost Manchuria

It is noted in the LIFE article that Xinjiang’s leaders were “nearly all Manchurian Chinese” and that “most of the officials today were officers in the forgotten Manchurian army of 10,000 men who retreated before the Japanese invasion”.

Xinjiang’s governor at the time was Governor Sheng (pictured to the right), who was known for implementing free education in native languages and a policy of equality between races.

According to James Millward in his book Eurasian Crossroads: A History of Xinjiang, Governor Sheng’s tenure as governor was “the first time ‘Uyghur’ entered official and common use to apply to the Turki-speaking, non-nomad population of southern Xinjiang”.

Other Fascinating Quotes:

“Sinjiang is the cheapest province in China”

“Sinkiang is famed for low taxes and honest tax collectors”

“[Sinkiang's] trade has died”

“The big news about Sinkinag is that the U.S.S.R. has now given it back to China”

“[Uyghur] dancing consists more of handwork and head-weaving than of foot-work”

“There is just one steam roller [for construction] in all of Xinjiang”

A Uyghur dancer as pictured by Vandivert

Called a “Moslem Cemetery near Aksu”, I can’t place where this is. Perhaps it has decayed or been destroyed over time.

A government officials meeting in Korla, held every Monday morning.

A Uyghur man digging irrigation ditches