Pictorial History of Urumqi's Hong Shan Park 红山

In the middle of Urumqi, the capital of Xinjiang, a hill sticks out of the ground that seems out of place. Legend says that both this hill and the nearby Yamalik Hill were two dragons that kept watch over the city.  Even now it serves as a symbol of a city that doesn't have much else to offer.

The pagoda on top of this hill is said to have been erected in 1788 and the Grand Buddhist temple in 1797.  Today visitors can climb to the top of this hill for a panoramic view of Urumqi (see an example of this view) or just to get some exercise.

Here, for the first time, watch as this barren hill becomes a tourist destination in this progression of photographs.

Early 1900

A small river runs along the hill which has absolutely no trees or paved walkways.

1907

Roads are still non-existent around the hill and the idea of a part is still decades away.

1983

By 1958 the Red Army had begun to build the hill into a park by planting trees, paving walkways, and adding more buildings. 

 2007

The small paved road has been turned into a major highway and the park is now home to over 30,000 trees.  The pagoda on Hong Shan park is now one of the most recognizable symbols of Urumqi.

A Survey of Xinjiang Websites on the Internet

As much as I would like for you to think that this website is the only place you can find information about Xinjiang, it's not. As a matter of fact, over the years there have been multiple websites created about the region by foreigners who have lived here, a phenomenon that I believe is unequaled among all of China's other provinces.

Search engines haven't done a good job of finding all of these blogs so I have taken it upon myself to introduce them to you.  If you don't want to keep up with this long list of blogs you should subscribe to FarWestChina or follow me on Twitter where I'll keep you up-to-date on the best and most interesting Xinjiang articles posted on the web.

The New Dominion

From the Site: "Our hope is that over time, The New Dominion will serve as a resource for Xinjiang scholars and enthusiasts that can provide both a snapshot of the latest happenings in the region and a database that can better illustrate historical, economic, and cultural trends and patterns over extended periods of time."

Frequency:  Currently they are on hiatus because they are too busy to post, but according to the author they will relaunch soon.

My Thoughts: This blog is very current-event focused and often political. Porfiriy, one of the authors, is very knowledgeable and willing to engage in great dialogue.

RSS Feed     Twitter

This is Xinjiang

From the Site: "I am not an expert on Xinjiang, nor on China, though I hope my blog can address some of the misrepresentations and realities of this supposedly restive region."

Frequency: The blog isn't dead from what the author has told me, but the last post was in November of last year.

My Thoughts:  Although I enjoyed the postings on this blog I think the pictures are the greatest contribution.  Check out their Flickr page.

RSS Feed     Flickr

Thoughts on the History of Xinjiang

From the Site: "The intention of keeping this blog is to offer resources, insights, and a place for discussion on the modern history of Xinjiang, with a particular emphasis on the early period of the PRC." 

Frequency: Approx. 2-3 posts per week

My Thoughts: This is one of the best new blogs on Xinjiang, but be warned: it's not light reading.  The articles are well-researched and academic in nature.  Also, I have respect for bloggers who put their name and reputation on their work (a rarity in Xinjiang blogging...for good reasons).  Good work, Chuck.

RSS Feed      Twitter

The Opposite End of China

Frequency:  This blog is now defunct although the archives are still available.

My Thoughts: In its heyday this blog was much more popular than mine is now.  Still, Michael Manning (the author) focused on very sensitive political topics which I try to shy away from.  Searching through his archives can be quite the adventure, I guarantee.

Autonomous Region

From the Site: "This is a personal weblog on music, images, travel, and translation of the Uyghur people in Central Asia."

Frequency: 1-2 posts per week

My Thoughts: This is a pretty obscure site that isn't always very relevant but I'm including it here because of the absence of a political slant despite its Uyghur focus.

RSS Feed

Uyghur Blog

From the Site: "This site is the result of years of academic research, which has culminated in frustration, hope, and the desire to do more...The goal is not to be political or progressive. The only side that we will take is the side of human rights and democracy."
Frequency: Average of 1 post per week
My Thoughts: The goal for this blog may be "apolitical" but I doubt many officials in Beijing or Urumqi would be excited about the content in this blog.  Articles tend to focus on current events that relate to or affect Uyghurs in Xinjiang.

RSS Feed    Twitter

True Xinjiang

From the Site: "The site is the largest portal on Xinjiang in English language and aims to present everyone a true picture of this autonomous region in Northwest China."

Frequency:  News is constantly updated although no RSS feed is available.

My Thoughts:  This site is maintained by the Global Times and presents a government-approved version of life in Xinjiang.  Needless to say, everything is happy and there's very little compelling information here.

CentralAsiaTraveler

Frequency: Never updated
My Thoughts: This is the only website on this list that is a static site (meaning it is never updated). Considering how very little that has been written about the southern edge of the Taklamakan Desert, though, I think this is a valuable resource for any person who thinks of traveling there.  Includes information on Hotan, Yutian, Ruoqiang, Qiemo, and Minfeng.


**Note: If you think I am missing a site on this list PLEASE leave a comment below with the URL and name of the site/blog.  Thanks!

Xinjiang's Best Food: Sanzi, Uyghur Fried Noodles

Local Name:  "Sangza"
Chinese Name: 馓子 (sǎn zi)
Alternate Names: Fried Dough Twists, Sanzi

Description:  A fried noodle snack usually served as a twisted pyramid.

A Local Uyghur Snack

If you ever have the chance to join a Uyghur celebration or be invited to a Uyghur home, chances are you're going to run into a beautiful pyramid of fried, twisted noodles.  Don't be ashamed...go snap off a piece!  It's not like a wedding cake where you're only supposed to admire it.  It's there to be eaten and Uyghur hosts are happy to see you enjoy yourself.

Like most anything that is deep-fried it has a crunchy taste with a light flavor.  Throughout Xinjiang you can find this for sale in Uyghur supermarkets or the local bakery.

What is Sanzi, Exactly?

Sanzi is a snack made of wheat-flour dough and pulled into thin noodles.  These noodles are then deep-fried and arranged in a circular pattern and stacked to form a pyramid.  It's a simple food, really, and very quick to make for the experienced cook.

 
Sanzi isn't strictly a Uyghur food.  As a matter of fact you'll probably see this snack all over China, wherever the Hui minority live (Hui are loosely referred to as the "Chinese Muslims").  According to the Chinese Wikipedia you can eat this snack in Shanxi, Shandong, Jiangsu, Henan, Hunan, and Sichuan provinces.  Oddly, they never mention Xinjiang in this list and I guarantee it isn't hard to find it here.

You probably won't be blown away by the taste of this snack but I can tell you from experience that it is incredible to see a pile of these noodles that is 3-4 feet high.

If This Excuse Doesn't Work...What Does?

Living without the internet for 6 months is definitely an exercise in patience but sometimes the most difficult part was being patient with people who didn't believe me.  Take my credit card company, for instance.  Not once in my life have I neglected to pay off my month-end balance in-full...until last September.  No access to the internet or phone means no way to pay off a recurring storage shed fee.

When I tried to explain my reasons to the bank during a trip out of the province (where I could get internet and phone), I began to realize that mine might not have been the most bizarre "excuse" they've ever heard.  The conversation went (somewhat) like this:

Me: I've already gone online and paid my balance off, but I'd like to make sure this one late payment isn't reflected poorly on my credit.

Credit Card Company (CCC):  Well Mr. Summers, judging from your statement you didn't pay your balance on time.

Me:  Yes, I know, but there was no way I could.  I live in Xinjiang, China and because of the riots last July all communication has been shut down.

CCC:   Sir, you could call me like you are doing right now and schedule a payment.

Me:  Great idea.  Except I can't make international phone calls.

CCC:  You're calling me now.

Me:  Stunning observation, ma'am.  I actually had to take a 500-mile trip to leave the province in order to make this call.

CCC:  Have you considered setting up our automatic payment program?

Me:  That might work...if I had internet access.

CCC: Couldn't you have gone to a friend's house or the library to access the internet?

Me:  Sure.  Except they don't have internet either.  Nobody in the province can access your website.  It's a tragedy, really.

CCC: Ok, sir. I'm going to send this in to our customer service department and they'll get back to you.

Me:  How?

CCC:  They can send you an email or call you.

Me:  No they can't.  I'm not lying to you - I don't have internet or international phone call capabilities.

Eventually I told the woman to just send me any information to my home address in the U.S.  To their credit (no pun intended) they didn't file me as delinquent, but they did have this to say in the letter they sent me:

Please be advised that when you are unable to send your payment with the payment remittance slip, please keep in mind the payment methods listed below may be utilized: 1) Pay by phone 2) pay online or 3) use our automatic payment program.

Thank you, bank, for your complete understanding.