Within the narrow alleyways of this Old Town lie thousands of years of Kashgar’s history. Aged wooden doors and cobblestone paths have witnessed the passage of innumerable donkey carts, small Uyghur children and, in recent times, many foreign tourists. On the outside, these mud-brick walls seem at peace with their place in history but just beyond the padlocked door a crippling truth emerges.
The remains of an Old Town block courtesy of Abandon the Cube
Squinting through the cracks in the doorway it is possible to see that these walls no longer house Uyghur inhabitants. Instead, they hide the heartbreaking destruction of Kashgar’s Old City. Over two-thirds of the city has already been leveled. History has been replaced by rubble; donkey carts by bulldozers.
Like a prisoner waiting for its execution, many walls still stand with the simple Chinese character 拆 ("chai") meaning “destruction”. Some of these condemned city blocks will reportedly be turned into a tourist center to keep the cultural heritage alive, but nothing will be able to replace what has been lost this month.
It is very easy to let emotions to control the debate about China’s decision to demolish the Old Town of Kashgar. The Chinese have an uncanny way of making a mess of their minorities. In order to fully understand what has happened here, however, both sides of the story must be presented.
Chinese: Transformation through Investment
China has spent a total of $448 million dollars as part of its plan to relocate over 220,000 Uyghur residents from the unsafe homes in the Old Town community to a newly built apartment complex. According to city planners, the area has suffered from overcrowding, poor drainage, dangerous fire hazards, and susceptibility to earthquakes. There is no doubt that these homes would break every fire, safety, and building code in any western country and it is in the best interest of city officials to protect its citizens.
A view of the Uyghur's new 6-story "China" homes
Compensation has been offered for those whose homes have been destroyed and the new apartments, besides meeting city standards, are a drastic improvement over the shoddy Old Town homes.
The average Han Chinese citizen doesn’t understand the international ruckus that this government investment in Kashgar has caused. Not only is the government providing new housing for the Uyghurs but they are protecting them from potential problems which they cannot afford to fix themselves. Part of the Old City will still be preserved and a tourist center has been planned for the area. The world seems to be heaping criticism on a project that they believe might, in the case of a future earthquake near Kashgar, save many lives.
Uyghurs: A Shot to the Heart of Uyghur Culture
The Uyghurs have long felt that the Chinese government is slowly destroying their heritage and culture. Signs of this destruction are evident in the trend of Xinjiang’s ethnic demographics over the past three decades and continue to be felt in major city projects like this one. Kashgar, historically the heart of Uyghur culture, tends to suffer the tightest control from Beijing (exemplified by the oversized Mao Statue).
Sure, the government is providing housing and compensation for those who have been displaced, but at what cost? These buildings have withstood thousands of years of whatever Mother Nature could send their way and yet they still stand. Many Uyghurs argue that living in the Old Town is safer than the modern Chinese concrete high rises they are being moved to.
Another concern is the lack of employment. A roof over the head is great, but without a steady income it will be difficult to put food on the table. Most of the previous employment was interconnected with the Old Town itself, so when it was destroyed so was their livelihood.
My Personal Opinion
While the Washington Post made waves by breaking this story, I think an article by The National did a better job of dissecting the situation. The circumstances are not a simple black and white, so I believe it is wrong when the Chinese paint this as an act of selfless giving to their minority neighbors. At the same time, I also believe it would be wrong for the international media to turn this into a conspiracy to completely destroy Uyghur culture. Saying that the Uyghur culture is built entirely on wood, hay and stubble (or in this case mud) is in itself a mockery of this very beautiful people.
That’s not to imply that the Uyghurs don’t have a right to feel threatened. It is obvious that they will not be getting much (if any) help in preserving their identity, so it is entirely up to them. When events like these strip Uyghurs of their power to protect their identity, there is plenty of room for concern.
I am not naïve enough to believe that the motives of certain powers-that-be in China are entirely pure, especially considering its history dealing with minorities, but I do agree with the article by The National that this clash has “more to do with cultural sensitivities than politics”. China is on a mission to secure this province and all of its oil resources and its most successful method of doing so has been rapid development with large investments.
It’s the same mentality they use with their national monuments (read The Business of History in Beijing). Think about the Great Wall. What was it once made of? Wood, mud, and stones. Now it has been rebuilt with concrete steps, metal railings, and gondolas. I still find the crumbling parts of the wall the most beautiful.
The same goes for Kashgar’s Old City. No matter what renovations and cultural museums take the place of of the mud brick walls, I will always remember the beauty of the ragged and dirty alleyways of old.
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I would like to extend a special "thanks" to Lauren from the Abandon the Cube blog for her stories and use of a few of the pictures you see above. Please read about her recent trip to Kashgar or check out more of her pictures on Flickr. Thanks Lauren!
25 Comments:
Bravo Josh, on a great article. I wonder if the big push to demolish the Old City happened after the Wenchuan Earthquake? This mentality to destroy "old things" is also reflected in the pre-Olympic destruction of the hutong neighborhoods in Beijing, which received much more international news coverage than what is happening in Kashgar (surprise!). A lot of my students here brag about the 5000 years of Chinese history to me, but strangely, they fail to see that they too are a part of that history, and that they too have a responsibility to preserve it. Very sad.
Very objective, Josh. Nicely done.
I believe the international media has an agenda when it comes to reporting on China. The whole story is rarely told.
Interesting article.
Uyghurs will always be friendly, hospitable and community focused. It's in their nature. Of course to be Uyghur is more than to live in a traditional home. However, it's harder to be those things when you're separated from your neighbours by stairs and floors and could go all day without anyone calling (particularly if the intercom on the entrance is broken).
One only needs to look at Western cities and lifestyles to see how apartments and individualistic pursuits have reduced many communities to a shadow of their former selves and left them powerless in the face of threats to their livelihoods and homes.
Of course Kashgar has benefited from the development that the Chinese have brought in. However, there is a sense that the Uyghur present a risk to development, rather than potential partners in it's risks and rewards. As long as major investment and development is kept primarily in the hands of the Chinese it could be argued that the ill-feeling of the Uyghur isn't going to abate.
The irony of all this, is that tourists come from all over the world to see the Old City. Without the Old City what will they visit? The bazaar is still amazing, but has been sanitised. Much of Kashgar's unique charm is gradually being eroded. Will people come to see a pastiche of what was there before?
@Sakura - I agree. I've seen people pee on a wall within the Forbidden City and I can't help but wonder. I do think you're right that the Wenchuan Earthquake last year gave this project a big kick in the butt.
@Stevo...Thanks for the comment.
@Wanderer - You're right that the western world, and now China, are moving away from a communal society to one of more privacy. Do you think the Uyghurs being forced to change from communal to individual living will affect their culture?
It's also important that I mention that not all of the Old Town is being destroyed, just a majority of it. There will still be places for tourist to wander and, according to the news, there will be a new tourist center designed to exploit (err...I mean, explore) the old traditional Uyghur lifestyle. I don't think that this takes the place of the real thing, but if Beijing's Great Wall or Xi'an's city wall are any indication, tourist don't care if it's original or refurbished.
Whenever I protest the "renovations" in Kashgar, I inevitably get asked if the objective "raised standards" for the displaced Uyghurs is not ultimately a benefit, if I'm succumbing to this neo-orientalist school of thought that Uyghurs are more in their element ensconced in their medieval adobe retreats. Seems like you get that too. But people who argue in this manner are totally missing the point. The issue is not whether development is "intrinsically good" for the Uyghurs. That's moot and a red herring, you know? The question is whether or not the Uyghurs are in charge of such development (or refusal thereof), whether or not they are exercising the autonomy of Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region.
Any arguments focusing on the value or lack of value of development for Uyghurs is ultimately missing the point and leads to a dead end. to me, honestly, it doesn't really matter. The real discussion is whether or not Uyghurs are given the opportunity to choose. As things stand now, they are not. For me, the happy ending to this situation is Uyghurs choosing on their own to retain their more agricultural, family-oriented lifestyle, OR, equally, the Uyghurs choosing on their own to renovate, install plumbing/electricity, move to high-rises. Either, in my eyes, is a good ending. What we have now though is smarter-than-thou Communist Party (read: Han interests) forcing the "obviously better" option on the Uyghurs.
Those are my two cents :)
Tourists want to see zoo and museum while local residents need better living conditions. Unlike concrete structures in the west, structures in China were made of wood, bricks and mud. It's very difficult to maintain and to upgrade. There should be a middle way.
We saw a huge swath of old neighbourhoods get bulldozed in Tianjin before the Olympics, and went in to take pictures and talk with the people still living there during the final two months.
The stuff I've read on this kind of "development" suggests that it's actually out of control; there's just too much money to be made and too many people with power willing to make it, and no one higher up who's motivated enough to do anything about it.
I agree with Porfiriy's points completely, and would add that if you check out the available online forums in Uyghur and Chinese on this issue, Uyghurs' opinions on the destruction of the Old City are overwhelmingly in opposition. Not scientific, of course, but the only thing available in the absence of transparency in China, and online commenters have included people who said they are/were residents of the Old City themselves.
I have to add to this, however, that while it is hard to PROVE intent, the destruction of Kashgar's Old City comes at the same time as a tremendous security campaign in the city, an enhanced drive to eliminate Uyghur in schools, a visit by top Xinjiang officials to Kashgar to visit relevant sites and comment on the Old City, education, and security in Kashgar, etc. All of these issues have been reported on together in Chinese in the state media as if they are part of one broader goal- while the official press of course touts it as a benevolent goal, one has to wonder. And the education issue can again be referred back to the issue of choice- are Uyghur children and their parents being given a CHOICE of which language to study in? The answer, clearly, is no.
Hey Josh, I wish we had a better frame of reference for Kashgar. Unfortunately, we did not see it before it had been destroyed, but there were several people going through the rubble as if it had just been demolished. It think that the 2/3 estimates in the papers seemed a little high, but then again... Thanks for all of the props.
Mike
I think Porfiriy's statement rings true in response to all the recent comments. The issue here is not about development but rather who is in control of that development.
@Weeger - Thanks for contributing your knowledge about the online forums. I admit to not being able to read Uyghur script and therefore can't glean such info. I don't doubt that this destruction is not being taken well by the Uyghur community.
It's also impossible to deny, as you said, the timing of this destruction. My point in the article is to say that the average Chinese citizen is unaware of these underlying reasons for destruction. I've met plenty of Chinese people who are afraid of Uyghurs (and vice versa) but never one who has told me they wish they could destroy their culture. To me this act in Kashgar not only reveals the motives of government officials as concerns Uyghurs, but also reveals the lack of cultural sensitivity among the average Chinese.
@Mike - I'm so sorry I didn't credit you personally! I'm so used to conversing with Lauren that it didn't dawn on me to put both of your names up here.
To set the record straight, Mike and Lauren BOTH write the AbandontheCube blog and it was their pictures you see above. Thanks again guys.
Josh and commenters - thanks for weighing in on this. After my too brief visit to Xinjiang, I was terribly saddened to read about the destruction of Kashgar's old city. I think the commenters have it exactly right: It's all about who is empowered to make the choice, and sadly, the Ughuirs are not.
Hi.
Petition to UNESCO World Heritage Committee
Award Kashgar UN World Heritage Status and Stop its Demolition!
http://www.petitiononline.com/kashgar/petition-sign.html
thanks!
Hi.
Petition to UNESCO World Heritage Committee
Award Kashgar UN World Heritage Status and Stop its Demolition!
http://www.petitiononline.com/kashgar/petition-sign.html
thanks!
http://uyghuramerican.org/docs/16.pdf A list of Uyghurs being held as political prisoners. From http://www.uhrp.org/. Can you see this site in China?
http://uyghuramerican.org/docs/16.pdf A list of Uyghurs being held as political prisoners. From http://www.uhrp.org/. Can you see this site in China?
I have run across this website multiple times, but no, it is unfortunately not accessible here in China. They've had some pretty good articles recently, though.
I have run across this website multiple times, but no, it is unfortunately not accessible here in China. They've had some pretty good articles recently, though.
"The real discussion is whether or not Uyghurs are given the opportunity to choose. As things stand now, they are not. For me, the happy ending to this situation is Uyghurs choosing on their own to retain their more agricultural, family-oriented lifestyle, OR, equally, the Uyghurs choosing on their own to renovate, install plumbing/electricity, move to high-rises. Either, in my eyes, is a good ending. What we have now though is smarter-than-thou Communist Party (read: Han interests) forcing the "obviously better" option on the Uyghurs."
First of all, we agree with all of you that the Uighurs should have a say on this, in particular, those who lived in the inner city of Kashgar; however, it's not necessarily clear the opinions expressed on the (Uighur) on-line discussion board more likely reflect the overseas Uighurs, some of who may have other motives; or at least it is not clearly that they necessarily reflect those residents.
It seems that any "sentimental" comments about the "Old City" were from Western tourists. I wish I could have seen Europeans go back in time to live in some mediaeval old towns (if some still are left) so tourists from Asia and Africa could watch with amusement and appreciation.
In a broader text, I wonder what would any of you enlightened Westerners like to say about West's eagerness in promoting and imposing "democracy" and other modern western "ideals" on other non-Western countries. Should people of those places should be allowed to choose their own way of life (or "lifestyle"), including the forms of governance/governments? I know that throughout the Chinese history, they had an authoritarian government (CCP is simply a modern version of it).
Sounds to me that what we have now though is "smarter-than-thou" Western democratic/human right fighters.
If you like and appreciate those mud houses in the "Old City" of Kashgar, why don't you go and live there permanently?
Yeah, let's forget about the modern building codes, fire codes, etc. of the West, who cares. If an earthquake strikes there, Uighurs die. I am sure the Western media would showcase all those miserable mud houses (and contrast that with the brand new apartments that the Han Chinese live in) as the proof for Chinese government's mistreatment of Uighur minorities.
The double standard and hypocrisy of some Western folks never cease amaze me!
"The real discussion is whether or not Uyghurs are given the opportunity to choose. As things stand now, they are not. For me, the happy ending to this situation is Uyghurs choosing on their own to retain their more agricultural, family-oriented lifestyle, OR, equally, the Uyghurs choosing on their own to renovate, install plumbing/electricity, move to high-rises. Either, in my eyes, is a good ending. What we have now though is smarter-than-thou Communist Party (read: Han interests) forcing the "obviously better" option on the Uyghurs."
First of all, we agree with all of you that the Uighurs should have a say on this, in particular, those who lived in the inner city of Kashgar; however, it's not necessarily clear the opinions expressed on the (Uighur) on-line discussion board more likely reflect the overseas Uighurs, some of who may have other motives; or at least it is not clearly that they necessarily reflect those residents.
It seems that any "sentimental" comments about the "Old City" were from Western tourists. I wish I could have seen Europeans go back in time to live in some mediaeval old towns (if some still are left) so tourists from Asia and Africa could watch with amusement and appreciation.
In a broader text, I wonder what would any of you enlightened Westerners like to say about West's eagerness in promoting and imposing "democracy" and other modern western "ideals" on other non-Western countries. Should people of those places should be allowed to choose their own way of life (or "lifestyle"), including the forms of governance/governments? I know that throughout the Chinese history, they had an authoritarian government (CCP is simply a modern version of it).
Sounds to me that what we have now though is "smarter-than-thou" Western democratic/human right fighters.
If you like and appreciate those mud houses in the "Old City" of Kashgar, why don't you go and live there permanently?
Yeah, let's forget about the modern building codes, fire codes, etc. of the West, who cares. If an earthquake strikes there, Uighurs die. I am sure the Western media would showcase all those miserable mud houses (and contrast that with the brand new apartments that the Han Chinese live in) as the proof for Chinese government's mistreatment of Uighur minorities.
The double standard and hypocrisy of some Western folks never cease amaze me!
sorry for a few typos above, e.g. "any `sentimental' comments" should be "many 'sentimental' comments, etc."
sorry for a few typos above, e.g. "any `sentimental' comments" should be "many 'sentimental' comments, etc."
This Old Town of Kashgar was built on the rubbles of 1902 earthquake measured 8.3 on the Richter scale, I wonder how many houses there truly has a "thousands of years" history
This Old Town of Kashgar was built on the rubbles of 1902 earthquake measured 8.3 on the Richter scale, I wonder how many houses there truly has a "thousands of years" history
I wish I could have seen Europeans go back in time to live in some mediaeval old towns (if some still are left) so tourists from Asia and Africa could watch with amusement and appreciation.
---------------------------------
Yeah, that's what I would like to see after spending big bucks travelling there. Show me the "true mediaeval Euope", pls!
I wish I could have seen Europeans go back in time to live in some mediaeval old towns (if some still are left) so tourists from Asia and Africa could watch with amusement and appreciation.
---------------------------------
Yeah, that's what I would like to see after spending big bucks travelling there. Show me the "true mediaeval Euope", pls!
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