Attention: Due to the riots on July 5th, 2009, all internet has been cut within Xinjiang. This means that all current posts have been scheduled and I cannot respond to comments. Thanks for your understanding.

Tuesday, September 09, 2008

Anatomy of a Modern Chinese Wedding

My dad once told me that in order to fully understand a culture you need to attend a wedding, a funeral, and a baby shower. Unfortunately our Chinese friends never got that memo, so instead of a well-balanced cultural immersion, we've been invited to five (yes, count them...FIVE) weddings this month. We've been to a wedding before and given a brief overview, but we've decided to be a little more detailed this time around. Please keep in mind as you read that we are referring to a modern wedding, not any ancient wedding practices, and we are drawing only from personal experience and what we've asked friends - China is a big country therefore many celebrations and customs differ in different areas, so this might be very specific to Xinjiang.
 
The Beginning of the Marriage

The part of China's marriage process that brought me the most confusion at first was trying to figure out when a marriage begins. The confusion stems from the fact that many times we have learned about a pregnancy before we are even invited to the wedding. In places other than China you might assume that they are getting married because they are pregnant, but in China there is a possibility that they have already been married for quite some time - they just haven't had a wedding.
 
A marriage officially begins in China when a couple apply for and receive what is roughly translated as a "marriage book". It's basically a marriage certificate as we know it, except it looks more like a passport with the couple's picture in it, hence calling it a "book". After a couple fills out a load of paperwork they go to the appropriate government office and apply to be married. Thirty minutes later they are handed their little red book - the beginning of the marriage.
 
Many couples wait months after receiving their marriage book before they actually have a wedding, a period of time which many times is used to decorate their new home. We've seen some couples live together during this time, but we've also seen couples wait until after the wedding to move in together. It seems odd, but this "limbo" period is the reason that often times we hear of a pregnancy before a wedding date is announced.
 
Inviting the Guests

Once they've actually decided to have a wedding they begin to make all the arrangements and invite the guests. We usually receive wedding invitations about a week in advance, but some couples have actually been kind enough to give us a month's warning. The two invitations you see to the left were given to us 4 days before the respective wedding dates. We went to both, which begs the question "Do you have nothing to do in your spare time?!" and, well...we refuse to answer that question. Many invitations we receive are actually "floating invitations", which means that they haven't nailed down the date yet but want us to know they'll be getting married. I'm sure things are different in the bigger cities, but out here in the boondocks they actually have wiggle room on dates.

The Actual Wedding "Ceremony"

Ok, here comes the fun part. There's a lot that goes on before the wedding at the bride's house, but that's a whole different story for a whole different post. Believe it or not, we actually enjoy going to Chinese weddings, eating the food and getting together with our co-workers for the big party. And it is a party. Since they're already married by the time the wedding occurs, the only part of the proceedings which could be considered ceremonious would be the public reading of the marriage book to verify that the couple is, in fact, married.

Sorry, I'm actually getting ahead of myself. First things first. When we arrive at the banquet hall we're usually greeted at the door by the bride, groom, best man, and bridesmaid. Pleasantries and congratulations are exchanged (along with a picture, sometimes), we sign a guest book, and then we just sit at the banquet tables and chat with other guests, eating the customary plate of peanuts and sunflower seeds.

Once most of the guests are seated, the real party begins. It would be pretty boring to give you a play-by-play of the wedding, so instead I'll give you a quick list of things that we've noticed are similar and unique to a Chinese wedding. As you'll see, the modern Chinese wedding has tried its best to imitate foreign weddings and yet twisted those customs to create their own interesting celebration.
  1. Similarity: There is big fanfare when the bride enters the room. Difference: In America, we play a song, in China, they light fire crackers. They're done outside the restaurant, but they're usually right outside the window. I've lit them once (see picture to the right), and they are death to the ears at close range. They say it's supposed to drive away evil spirits, but I think they just love the loud sound.
  2. Similarity: The bride wears a white dress. when you first arrive. This practice is relatively new in China, I believe, because the traditional color for weddings is red. Difference: She seems to want to get out of the white dress as fast as she can! I'd venture to estimate that the first 20 minutes is spent in the white dress while the remaining few hours and after-party are spent in her red dress.
  3. Similarity: There is a decorated car that the bride and groom ride in. Difference: They arrive in the decorated car (ALWAYS a black car), and it's usually tastefully done with roses instead of shoe polish and balloons. I honestly don't know if they leave in the car because we've never stayed long enough to figure that out.
  4. Similarity: There is an emcee. Difference: He is neither a pastor or a judge. He doesn't have to be because by this time they're already married, remember? He's an entertainer and his job is to make the crowd smile and laugh until they are sufficiently drunk to do so on their own. And if you were wondering...no, our camera wasn't malfunctioning. The man pictured here is actually wearing green pants and a purple shirt. I have a feeling he actually thought he looked good wearing them, too.
  5. Similarity: There is a Best Man and a Bridesmaid. Difference: They're pretty much there to bear the brunt of the emcee's jokes so that the bride and groom don't have to. They eat and drink nasty stuff, endure public humiliation, and at some point in every wedding I've been to, the Best Man ends up face down on the ground. I never quite understand why.
  6. Similarity: The music. You'd probably be surprised by how much music you'd recognize at a Chinese wedding. I don't think they understand what words are being sung, but they realize that it's a love song and you're supposed to hear it at a wedding. Difference: The next song is Beijing Opera. Ouch. If you've ever heard Beijing Opera you understand why this is something that would NEVER happen in an American wedding.
  7. Similarity: You give a gift to the bride and groom. Difference: You never give anything except money. There is never a gift table, and the term "gift registry" has been difficult for us to translate into Chinese. They usually don't get married as early as we do, so there isn't as much need for housing appliances. The money usually goes to pay for the cost of the wedding, but from what I've heard it never fully covers the cost.

We, of course, weren't married in China, so I concede that these are merely observations from a spectator's point of view. For any readers that have actually been married in China, I'd love to hear what you think of my analysis and what you might add to it. This is by no means a comprehensive overview, but it's the best I can do for now.

Next up? Nine months from now we're preparing for 5 new Chinese babies.


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11 Comments:

Anonymous said...

Last year on the Sinosplice blog, John related the different opinions of when he and his wife were married even after they were legally married but still living apart(http://www.sinosplice.com/life/archives/2006/08/18/am-i-married).
For her family, it's the banquet. For his family, it's the Church ceremony.
For even some Chinese women I know, it's the wedding pictures. Do they do that out in Xinjiang?

Josh & Tiffany Summers said...

Thanks for the link to John's blog. I keep up with it now but I hadn't seen that post. A foreigner getting married in to a Chinese national seems like it could be a headache I'm glad I didn't have to go through.

I've never heard of the wedding pictures being considered the "moment of marriage", although the practice of taking pre-wedding pictures is an epidemic here in Xinjiang. To not take pictures would almost be as bad as not having a wedding period!

My wife and I took a set of those pictures just for the fun of it, but I'd be too embarrassed to post any of them on the website! My white face combined with a white suit just make for crazy combination!

尼克 said...

The whole process of a foreigner marrying a Chinese lady is detailed at http://feisnik.blogspot.com along with a video of such a wedding.

Anonymous said...

This corresponds pretty well to my experience. However, there are some details that could be added.

1) The medical examination. Not sure that this is still necessary, but prior to getting a marriage certificate it was required for the couple to get a checkup and endure a sex-education chat.

2) It's important when planning a wedding banquet to have an even number of tables, as even numbers correspond to couples. But you also can't have four tables, because "four" sounds like "death" in Chinese.

3) It's traditional for the couple to pay respects to parents by bowing, addressing them as father/mother, etc. (It looks as if that's what's going on in one of your pictures.) But in some parts of China it's considered bad luck for the bride's family to actually attend the wedding.

4) After the wedding is over, there's a tradition of going to the new couple's home for more fun and games -- a lot of teasing, mildly suggestive games, etc. -- that lasts well into the night.

5) It's customary in some parts of China to distribute candy to the guests and, often, to other acquaintances who either weren't invited or couldn't attend.

6) The couple is expected to visit each guest soon after the wedding, bearing some sort of gift. This adds to the cost that is not being recouped by the wedding haul.

That's what I can think of off the top of my head. Of course, it's important to remember that traditions, customs, and expectations can vary widely from place to place.

Josh & Tiffany Summers said...

Great observations, some of which (#2 & #6) I was never aware. Thanks for sharing!

Where I'm at, the big tradition is for everybody to gather at a local KTV (karaoke bar) to sing and get themselves drunk until late at night. It's not the same as going to the new couple's home for fun and games, but it seems like a similar idea.

Wenwen said...

Very interesting reading, thanks for sharing.

Just one thing, regarding brides' white dresses, in recent years in Chinese metropolis like Shanghai or Beijing, some girls are choosing white dresses or other colors than red as they wish. You know not all Chinese people fond of red, Lol.

Cheers,
Wenwen

chriswaugh_bj said...

Re paperwork: You'd be surprised at how little is involved. Even for a foreigner marrying a Chinese citizen, it's not that bad. All I had to provide was a passport with valid visa/residence permit and a 'certificate of no impediment to marriage' with notarised translation. She had to provide valid ID card and hukou. And photos, of course. No medical exam, no permission from the work unit, that was all done away with when they passed the new marriage law circa 2001.

As for the car, I don't know. My wife and I walked with my parents and best man to the hotel we were staying at, but that's because of the peculiarities of our wedding. Traditionally the wedding ceremony would be at the groom's house, obviating the need for transport for the new couple- but the guests would have to be taken care of transport-wise, of course.

Money? We turned a tidy profit on our wedding, and my impression is that's not uncommon at least here in Beijing.

I think that best man/bride's maid thing may be a Xinjiang thing, certainly never seen that kind of thing in Beijing. Their role here is support, to make sure the bride and groom are where they're supposed to be doing what they're supposed to do. Of course, I wound up making sure my best man was where he was supposed to be doing what he was supposed to do, but again that's due to the peculiarities of my particular wedding.

Matthew said...

I still don't know what was said during my wedding ceremony. Even my marriage certificate is in two languages I can't read (we were married in Xinjiang).

There was another wedding party next to ours--the bride wore a western dress and the groom wore a short-sleeve button-down shirt. But they did bring in a full bus-load of guests.

Anonymous said...

Any suggestions for a gift to send from the U.S. to a couple being married in Shanghai? Is only money appropriate or would some U.S. present be better?

Josh said...

The most common gift at any Chinese wedding is cash. I completely understand how impersonal that feels to an American, but it really is how things work here for the most part.

If this couple is very special to you, though, there is one alternative that I have used before: give both. It doesn't have to be much, but some cash and a small gift can show that you still respect and understand their culture.

Sakura said...

Josh! Thanks for this link, I will now add it to my entry. Your post is hilarious. I have a video for the Uyghur wedding that I took but I'm having trouble with Youku. Hopefully it will be up later tonight... let's compare notes because it was nothing like I expected, yet still a lot of fun.

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